When that's confirmed, check if the power button connector is loose. You can also CAREFULLY short the two pins it's usually connected to manually, with a screwdriver or something similar, but be careful not to touch or short anything else.
Using a more powerful PSU (higher wattage) will not damage your computer. The PSU doesn't PUSH power into the computer, it simply have a larger capacity from which the computer can draw what it needs.
Sometimes ATX PSU's need a total power down. Disconnecting the power cord, then press power on, will empty the residual power stored in the PSU's capacitors. (you may notice the power led lights up briefly (less than a second).
This can also help buggy or troublesome ATX PSU's.
Better PSU's have a power switch on the back to save pulling the cable out, If your's has just switch it off for 10 seconds.
Another trick is to use a device that powers down peripherals when you turn off the computer.
I have one designed for a TV. it has a remote IR semsor (with a manual button on it) that can be programmed to the TV's power signal, it turns the TV on and anything connected to it's autoswitch socket. I have the computer plugged in where the TV should go so I just press the manual switch then turn on the computer and the monitor, sounds system, laser printerm desk light etc. all get switched on autoimatically and off again about 15 seconds after I turn of the computer.
This ensures the PSU gets a total disconnect and saves having to keep the monitor, printer, speakers etc. in standby mode.
Amiga user since 1985 AOS4, A-EON, IBrowse & Alinea Betatester
What if i try (if i find it) another bigger and more powerfull power supply.
For future reference (and anyone else who may have the same problem) :
While higher-wattage PSUs will not harm your Sam440, they may fail to work, because the Sam440 draws so little power the PSU will think it is not connected to a working computer. Or so I have heard. So the lower the wattage of PSU you can find, the better.
Not entirely true. An electric short, is a digital thing. It's either a short, or not. So when pins 14-15 are shorted, they're shorted.
Also, the lowest wattage, might not make for a stable computer if you balance usage very close to it's capacity. But having a 1000W PSU on a 150W computer is shooting sparrows with a cannon.
The bigger problem is the current smoothing, Higher wattage PSU's are designed to provide a stable even flow of power at specific levels, these levels are set for intel multicore etc., far higher power consumption systems than the Amiga.
I measured my X1000 ages ago with a R4850HD (with additional power connected), soundcard and iirc 5 older harddrives connected (3 sata, 2 ancient IDE) and the total power draw was 160w. unless you have a power hungry gfx card and do nothing other than play 3D games then a 240w to 300w PSU is fine if you can actually find anything that low anymore.
Amiga user since 1985 AOS4, A-EON, IBrowse & Alinea Betatester
Not entirely true. An electric short, is a digital thing.
No it aint. Not remotely. Not unless you have a supercooled superconddcting connection.
All imaginary scenarios aside, nuclear spiders interfering with the delicate copper connections, alien octopuses sucking the hasty electrons out of the cables, etc... An electric short is "digital" in the manner of it's either "1" or "0". Either you have a short, or you don't. If you stick a straightened paper clip into the ATX-connector's pin 14 and 15, the result won't be stopped by a speck of dust or some corrotion, nor the slight oxydation on the surface of either the connector or the paperclip. It will give a short. Otherwise, you're better off fiddling with MacOS or Windows.
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It's either a short, or not. So when pins 14-15 are shorted, they're shorted.
It's either open cicuit (very high resitance) ot closed with a hopefully low resitance, but dirt can make that low resutance higher than you expect.
Again, see above. If you stick a paperclip into the connectors female socket 14 and 15, you WILL short the two pins. Unless you're a fairy without the ability to actually STICK it in there. You know when it's in there or not. It's not like wawing a daisy aound in a bucket... It's a paperclip, and you FIRMLY stick it in the female connectors. Any random dirt will be brutally forced away. How dirty must a paperclip and a female connector be to not make contact when forced together?
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Also, the lowest wattage, might not make for a stable computer if you balance usage very close to it's capacity.
Lowest wattage maybe not, but you do need to put aload on the supply so you need a supply so you should use one of the right ball park rating.
Reading from both my Fluke 87V multimeter and my Variac, my X1000 draws about 180W. It runs comfortably from the 900W PSU. The PSU doesn't even run slightly warm, which means the capacitors inside it won't run the risk of drying out for many years. The more you oversize your supply side of your life, the longer stuff lasts due to less strain on the supply side. In my 2x15W Linsley Hood Class A amplifier, i have a 600VA toroid transformer. It can comfortably deliver 16Amperes, but since the amplifier "only" draws 2,5Amperes per channel when idle, it means both the transformer and rectifiers run pretty "cold", and the ripple from the smoothing capacitors are also pretty low, since i've also over-sized those. (2x100.000uF)
Quote:
But having a 1000W PSU on a 150W computer is shooting sparrows with a cannon.
Try that, I'll thjik you'll find that a cannon is too slow to manouver and the sparrows too fast to aim at...
Not entirely true. An electric short, is a digital thing. It's either a short, or not. So when pins 14-15 are shorted, they're shorted.
Perhaps, but a power supply's protection circuitry can still shut down a power supply even if PS_ON# is pulled low (e.g., shorting pins 14-15). If the loads on the various outputs are imbalanced, or it can't keep the voltages within tolerances (e.g., because there isn't enough load), then a power supply's protection circuitry kicks in and shuts down the power supply. It usually remains shut down until it's reset by cycling the PS_ON# pin or removing the external power.
Case in point: I currently have an old 250W ATX power supply powering two sets of fans via thermal controllers. This is a temporary set up, because the power supply shuts down every time that the thermal controllers shut down the fans. The sudden loss of load on the 12V line triggers a shut down.
Admittedly, this is a rather extreme case. Nevertheless, it does demonstrate what can happen with a large power supply connected to a miniscule load (relatively speaking).
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