Hi all - I've recently just acquired a Blizzard PPC 210mhz with a 68060 50mhz processor on board. I have a desktop A1200 with a brand new 250w ATX external PSU (from amigakit) which has a standard Amiga power plug as well as the molex connectors coming out of it. Could someone tell me the best way of powering my card please with this setup please? I've seen some people connect the 5v line from a molex connector directly on to the 2pin fan connector on the blizzard board. Is this safe to do? Is this the best way of getting power straight on to the board? How does every one else do it? Regards. Terry
You have to push extra power through the mobo, as there isn't enough juice going through, so yeah, you need to put a power(ed) connector to the floppy disk drive power plug on the mobo.
I can't recall ever having seen any other way of doing it.
If you are anywhere near London pop into ANT. They can help you if you're stuck.
Mikey C
No cause is lost if there is but one fool left to fight for it.
Haven't got any cooling issues - I have a custom cooler on both of the bvision and bpcc cards that is plentyful!
I do have a wierd power issue though. I have the standard amiga power connector plugged in from the 250w atx (new) psu, and I have the molex connector plugged directly on to the motherboard (with the 5v line reading 4.97v)
However...
What is REALLY strange is that, with both power connectors attached, the machine turns on, but never boots from either a floppy disk or a hard disk!! It starts to boot, then simply stops and goes no further than the light grey screen.
If I have just the standard amiga power plugged in, its not enough to power up the blizzard boards, and thus struggles to go from the dim green light to the full 'on' green light.
So... what I (annoyingly) have to do each time in order to boot, is to have both power connectors plugged in to get the dim green light to go to the full green light...
then as soon as thats happened, switch off the other molex connector going to the mainboard to get it to boot from either a floppy or hard drive.
This I add works beautifully - but I'm worried that it could damage by Amiga.... as surely its not a good/safe thing to do long term??
I must also add, that with power connectors plugged in, I can access the BPPC option menu without any problems, and I can see the boot rom screen also, if I don't have a hard drive attached, or a bootable floppy inserted.
Any ideas anyone?!?!? It seems to me that it only likes to boot with the 5v main line is at 4.77v (which is what it is when I remove the 2nd power connector)
4.7 volts is a little low i reccomend min 4.8v. your set-up you may just get away with 4.7 volt but when it starts to read/write data with the cpu at full load can lead to read/write errors.
some users take the voltage after boot-up,but take the voltage during boot-up and see how much the voltage drops. if you have a CD rom drive add this as well,see how much the voltage drops.
another way to reduce the voltage drop is to have a shorter molex lead but extra power feed is recommend at the floppy connector.
I think you've missed my point. When I have the floppy connector connected straight from the power supply to the main board - the 5v main line reads 4.97v - but DOESNT boot from the hard disk or floppy drive. It starts to, but then simply stops!!!! Surely 4.97v should be spot on????
However, when it disconnected, I get about 4.78v - which makes it boot from the hard drive/floppy drive.
But in order for machine to turn on and to recognise/power up the bppc card, i need to have the 2 connectors connected first, then I have to remove the floppy main board connector as soon as the green light comes on, to get it to boot!!!
So to summarise, what I do to get it to boot is:
- Both power leads in (4.97v) - Green power light goes from dim green to bright green - Remove Floppy Power Lead (from PSU) voltage drops to 4.77v whilst machine is still on) - System boots!
If I don't pull out the floppy power connector after dim green light has gone full green, then it starts to boot, then simply stops.
Otherwise, if I leave both power connectors, machine comes on, starts to boot, then stops and hangs on the light green screen.
I think you've missed my point. When I have the floppy connector connected straight from the power supply to the main board - the 5v main line reads 4.97v - but DOESNT boot from the hard disk or floppy drive. It starts to, but then simply stops!!!! Surely 4.97v should be spot on????
However, when it disconnected, I get about 4.78v - which makes it boot from the hard drive/floppy drive.
But in order for machine to turn on and to recognise/power up the bppc card, i need to have the 2 connectors connected first, then I have to remove the floppy main board connector as soon as the green light comes on, to get it to boot!!!
So to summarise, what I do to get it to boot is:
- Both power leads in (4.97v) - Green power light goes from dim green to bright green - Remove Floppy Power Lead (from PSU) voltage drops to 4.77v whilst machine is still on) - System boots!
If I don't pull out the floppy power connector after dim green light has gone full green, then it starts to boot, then simply stops.
Otherwise, if I leave both power connectors, machine comes on, starts to boot, then stops and hangs on the light green screen.
@badgerme
Quote:
badgerme wrote: @delshay
I think you've missed my point. When I have the floppy connector connected straight from the power supply to the main board - the 5v main line reads 4.97v - but DOESNT boot from the hard disk or floppy drive. It starts to, but then simply stops!!!! Surely 4.97v should be spot on????
However, when it disconnected, I get about 4.78v - which makes it boot from the hard drive/floppy drive.
But in order for machine to turn on and to recognise/power up the bppc card, i need to have the 2 connectors connected first, then I have to remove the floppy main board connector as soon as the green light comes on, to get it to boot!!!
So to summarise, what I do to get it to boot is:
- Both power leads in (4.97v) - Green power light goes from dim green to bright green - Remove Floppy Power Lead (from PSU) voltage drops to 4.77v whilst machine is still on) - System boots!
If I don't pull out the floppy power connector after dim green light has gone full green, then it starts to boot, then simply stops.
Otherwise, if I leave both power connectors, machine comes on, starts to boot, then stops and hangs on the light green screen.
4.77 or 4.78 is not a bad voltage thats good,4.9v is even better and should boot with everything attached.
you should have molex connected with extra power fed-in at the floppy connector via the PSU on the motherboard. NOTE: some users use a split lead here to power both floppy and motherboard at the same time here.
the floppy can then be powered direct from the power supply by one of the other leads (floppy connector lead) **it should boot**
with the above set-up you have lots of wires all over the place,but do what you think is best.
if it fail to boot i would back-up data and try re-install at the new voltage.
** BUT IF IT'S WORKING JUST LEAVE IT AS I DON'T WANT YOU TO DAMAGE YOUR CARD **
sometines it's best to leave it alone.
here on my system it reads 5.01v im using ANTEX TRUEBLUE PSU ( for testing only ) and have no problems whatsoever.
** leave the card in a working state** i think this is best for you,as if something go's wrong you be unhappy. if you have problem with 4.77 to 4.78v then do some changes but if it works fine at 4.77v then just leave it.
Yes, indeed, but if the user wants to put it in a desktop case, that's his prerogative. Personally, a Tower is the way to go IMHO.
desktop A1200 case is fine as long as you know what you are doing ie add cooling in the right place.
the A1200 case is low profile case so i use blowers to blow the hot air out to the front lower part of the orignal air vents so no extra hole to cut in the outer case.
using orignal feet and trapdoor ( no cutouts )
BLIZZARD PPC 320Mhz with 80Mhz bus........awaiting fix for 83Mhz bus.
woah thats one seriously modd'ed blizzard card. Would love to see some photos of your cooling system!! to see how you've managed to continue using the original rubber feet!!
I've simply elevated the whole machine up by approx 1 inch on to wooden blocks to allow a full heatsink & fan to be attached to the bottom - and added a hard drive cooler to suck out air from the case. Also added few fans & heatsinks inside on the GPU + RAM chips on the Bvision too....
woah thats one seriously modd'ed blizzard card. Would love to see some photos of your cooling system!! to see how you've managed to continue using the original rubber feet!!
I've simply elevated the whole machine up by approx 1 inch on to wooden blocks to allow a full heatsink & fan to be attached to the bottom - and added a hard drive cooler to suck out air from the case. Also added few fans & heatsinks inside on the GPU + RAM chips on the Bvision too....
What did you do to it to get it to 300+ Mhz?
it custom cooling i started by saying no cutouts and no extra feet and no cutout in the trapdoor.
i then did workaround around this and belive it or not it has extreme very low noise level,you be hard pushed to hear the cooling system running from say 2 metres away.
on my second project the noise level was so low i had go as close as 1/2 a metre to hear the cooling system but this ran at 268Mhz.
but this new project is not complete it's a work in progress where at some point the SCSI will be split from the 68k like on the CYBERSTORM PPC in-order for the 68k to run at the full speed 80Mhz. ( already tested and passed ).
NOTE: 68k is untested at 83Mhz
but this is not the final speed for shure it's going to get faster in pre-testing it has infact already reach ( if i remember ) 332Mhz with 83Mhz bus but has issues which needs to be fixed.
A1200 desktop should have blowers just like LAPTOPS,blowing hot air out but at the same time blowing accross the hot component(s).
the only cutout i have in the orignal case is where the PCMCIA card slot is to the right where a small hole is drilled for the LED which shows me proper insert of the PCMCIA card.
Edited by delshay on 2009/8/19 19:19:59 Edited by delshay on 2009/8/20 10:35:54 Edited by delshay on 2009/8/20 10:37:26 Edited by delshay on 2009/8/20 10:40:16 Edited by delshay on 2009/8/20 10:54:30
bamiga2002 wrote: Is it good/bad/useful to feed the A1200 mobo from PSU to floppy connector if you use a Mediator with BPPC?
It's of very little use really as the big power draws are the accelerator and associated boards (BVision etc.) that you attach, and they'll be provided with power from the Mediator pass through connector. The motherboard itself doesn't really need much power, and seeing as the floppy drive connector is on the motherboard, adding power there won't have any effect on the accelerator at all.
It shouldn't do any harm, but there's really no need.
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